Tips & How To's

How to Compost Your Kitchen Scraps

April 25, 2018 by Marjorie Carter

by Marjorie Carter

Alchemists are famous for their efforts to turn lead in to gold. It was thought that a “base metal” could be purified or perfected so that it transformed in to something more valuable.

While their efforts were always in vain, it is possible to transform much of your daily waste from food preparation in to something more valuable than it’s original form. Put in some grass clippings, add in your apple cores, roll together with your potato peelings, onion skins, watermelon rinds, and shredded paper bags. Let it heat and stir once in a while. Voila! You end up with black gold (aka compost)!

MY COMPOST EXPERIENCE

The house we bought a few years ago has a large yard (meaning space for a garden) and a few fruit trees. This is exactly what we were looking for and we have enjoyed trying to keep up with maintaining it. Our first fall in the house, we were generating a lot of waste as we processed apples, pears, and tomatoes that we’d grown. We also were looking at all the green waste from pulling up the tomato plants and raking the leaves. It dawned on us that we could be doing something much more useful and conscientious with all that biodegradable material. We had spent some money earlier in the year to buy compost from the landfill to amend our soil to make it better for gardening. Why not make some of our own compost to add to our garden?

We started by making a big pile in the back corner of the yard but realized quickly that, while this would eventually work, it was sort of unsightly and not as effective as it could be. We then turned to a store bought composter with two plastic barrels mounted on a frame to allow the user to easily spin the barrels once in a while to mix up the contents. We quite like this composter but quickly realized that this set up was better suited to someone with a smaller amount of material to compost. We needed something bigger to accommodate the amount of material we were generating with all the green waste from our canning and from our yard.

My husband knew someone who was moving and getting rid of a couple of 50 gallon water barrels. We decided to pick them up to try using them to capture rain water for watering our garden (that’s a conversation for another blog post!) and then it occurred to us that these would make good composting bins. My husband removed the top from one of them so we could easily put material in to the barrel and then drilled holes down the sides all around (easy and quick job with a power drill). Suddenly we had much more space to fill. We’ve since added a second 50 gallon bucket in to the composting bin family.

So far we’ve had a couple of ‘batches’ of compost and it is surprisingly satisfying to see the rich black earth that was once a bunch of scraps and leavings.

STEPS FOR COMPOSTING

There are a few tricks to composting but, overall, it’s quite a simple task.

STEP 1: The first thing is to pick a spot for your composting. Pick a spot that gets plenty of sun since heat is an important factor in getting all that green waste to break down.

STEP 2: Next you need to pick a container. There are lots of commercially available options out there, you can build your own enclosure, or repurpose something the way we did.

STEP 3: Once you’ve got things set up, you can start adding the organic material.

MATERIALS TO COMPOST

GREEN WASTE: Green waste includes grass clippings and the fruit and vegetable waste you would normally put in the trash. Try keeping a metal bowl on the counter to hold your orange peels, wilted spinach leaves, banana peels, coffee grounds, etc. Empty it daily to keep from attracting fruit flies. They also sell little counter top buckets with lids for holding your compost. I own one but I find that I tend to ignore it, even once it’s filled (out of sight out of mind!), and then end up with a smelly mess that is harder to get out of the container. A bowl keeps things visible so I don’t forget to dump it out regularly.

BROWN WASTE: Brown material can include dried leaves from your trees, cardboard egg cartons, paper bags, sawdust, and tree bark or cuttings. As with the green waste, breaking this material in to smaller pieces will speed up the process – shred the paper bag or egg carton, use a wood chipper to chop up large branches, and so on.

AIR: There are steps to composting that include making sure the pile gets air, turning it, and making sure it stays moist. These will help speed the process. If you have the space for your compost to sit and do its thing for months, rather than weeks, then these steps can be more intermittent. I have been a slow composter from the start (mostly due to laziness! Turning is something I just don’t remember to do very often). If you want your compost churned out at a faster pace, then you’ll need to be more mindful of these steps.

HEAT: Heat is important to composting, too, but don’t let that stop you from putting organic material from your scrap bowl in to the composter (rather than sending it to the landfill) during the winter. The decomposition process still occurs during the winter but at a slower pace and will pick back up once it starts to warm up.

It is important to remember that you need a mix of green and brown waste to make good compost. The green waste will provide nitrogen for the final product and the brown waste will provide carbon. Both components are essential. Too much nitrogen in the compost will make it a smelly mess. Too much carbon and the compost will take a very long time to decompose in to that black soil you’re hoping for.

TIPS ABOUT YOUR COMPOST

A few tips about the things you throw in to the compost pile/bin –
– large pieces of watermelon rind will take longer to break down than small ones so try chopping them up in to pieces no bigger than 1 inch by 1 inch.
– Egg shells can be added to your compost bin BUT they won’t break down as quickly as the green waste. If you add egg shells, crush them as small as you can before tossing them in the compost bin
– Don’t put cherry pits or nut shells into the composter.
– Don’t put in bones or meat or dairy or oily materials
– Don’t add weeds with seeds (unless you are diligent with temperatures reaching 160 degrees)
– Don’t add diseased plant material (again, temperature issue, and the last thing you want to do is spread disease throughout your garden)

According to the experts at Utah State University, during the growing season, 30% or more of landfill waste is organic yard refuse (https://extension.usu.edu/htm/publications/publication=4955). Home composting eases landfill problems and helps “reuse, reduce, and recycle” this organic material into a valuable soil amendment.

For me, the thing that is most satisfying about composting is this last point. My efforts may be small in the grand scheme of the trash scene, but I’m doing my part to keep as much waste out of the landfill as I can. It also just so happens that doing this is actually beneficial to me. When I dig into my garden, I know that some of that earth was once on my kitchen countertop as scraps and are now contributing to my delectable tomatoes.

Pin me – composting kitchen scraps!

Pest Control – the Annoying Box Elder Bug

April 19, 2018 by Western Gardens

Boxelder bug on green leaf. CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/) or CC BY 2.5 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5)]

By Tom Murphy VII on WikimediaCommons

Have you already found a boxelder bug inside your house this spring? They are often the first bug of spring, at least in my yard. Boxelder bugs (Leptocoris species) are very common over most of the United States. They are considered more of a nuisance than a destroyer.

Boxelder bugs are most numerous in areas where boxelder, silver maple, ash, and fruit trees grow. Their main source of food is from sucking the juice from the boxelder tree, which does not damage the tree. In the early spring, the female bugs lay their eggs on the bark of these trees. The new little hatchlings are called nymphs and are about ¼ inch long and have bright red wingless bodies with black legs. Nymphs congregate in mass, so it’s easy to spot them on the trunk of a tree, building foundation, or wherever. The young feed on tender twigs, foliage, pollen, and seeds through the spring and summer. Controlling the nymphs is easier than controlling the adults so watch this spring to get a jump on them.

Boxelder bug Nymphs & Adults – Photo by Viking6 at Wikipedia, CC by 3.0

The Boxelder bug adults grow to be about ½ inch long. They are red or black with reddish lines on their wings. In the fall, especially on bright sunny days, the bugs migrate to locations to hibernate through the winter. In the spring, they emerge to look for host trees so they can eat and lay their eggs, completing the cycle.

Photo by Bruce Marlin on WikimediaCommons

How to Control Boxelder Bug and/or Prevent their Annoyance

For home invasion prevention, keep sealed doors, windows, foundation cracks, around plumbing, gas, and electrical conduits. Weather strip around doors and windows plus screen off attic vents and repair broken windows and screens. Expanding-foam sealants may be helpful too.

Photo by Pixxl Teufel on Pixabay

Vacuum the bugs with a “shop” type vacuum, empty the vacuum and seal and dispose of the collected bugs, as they can live through the vacuuming process and will continue to creep around otherwise.

Photo by Jarmoluk on Pixabay

Avoid smashing the bugs. They don’t feed on fabric or furniture, but when crushed, they do stain household items. They also release a strong, unpleasant odor.

Photo by Took-a-Pic on Pixabay

Boxelder bugs, especially the nymphs, are easily drowned. When watering your plants with a garden hose, it’s also a good time to water-down congregations of bugs on buildings.
Reduce bug populations by removal of female boxelder trees. Realize that even if you don’t have a boxelder tree on your property, chances are great that there is a Boxelder tree nearby.

Boxelder trees are often called “trash” trees. They may seem pretty and provide shade, but there are many other better choices for shade.

Boxelder tree leaves

Boxelder bugs do not have many natural enemies. No major insects or birds like to eat them, probably because they can emit an offensive odor, which probably makes them taste bad too. Spiders could be considered a minor predator.
Chemical control of boxelder bugs is difficult because these bugs are tolerant of most insecticides. There are some residual insecticides that can be sprayed around the outside of the building. Oil based sprays can stain building surfaces, so try to control on the host plants, not the building. Be sure to check with your local independent garden center, like Western Gardens, to know the latest and best product recommended. Always follow current label instructions of any pesticide used, as label changes occur and must control application procedures. This or any other instruction must be adjusted/disregarded so application conforms to the current pesticide container label.
For an organic alternative to using synthetic insecticides. Mix about ½ cup laundry detergent with one gallon of water. Use a squirt bottle to spray the insects. There is no residual value so you must spray thoroughly and often.

Organic Solution

Resources: Thanks to Ortho Publications, Utah State Extension, Chuck Solomon, and G. Rex Buys of Western Garden Centers

Keep Kids Safe from Poisonous Plants and Pesticides – Part 1

April 14, 2018 by Western Gardens

As the first days of spring arrive, people are eager to get outdoors. Unfortunately, the outdoors can pose several dangers to children. Adults can keep kids safe from poisonous plants and pesticides by being aware of some basic knowledge and advice.

According to the National Capital Poison Center, the most poisoning occurs in children who are six or younger, including almost half of poisoning exposures. Though poisoning affects everyone from seniors to infants, it is most common in one- and two-year-olds.

In 2014, poisonous plants and pesticides were among the top 10 leading causes of poisoning in children younger than six years, accounting for nearly 6 percent of poisoning cases, while bites and stings accounted for 0.5 percent of poisoning cases among the same age group. Additionally, 2.5 percent of poisoning fatalities in children younger than six years from 2010-2014 were due to pesticides, making them one of the more dangerous causes of poisoning in children.

Parents and caretakers need to be informed about the dangers of poisonous plants and pesticides to keep children safe. Parents who know what to keep out of their yards and by teaching children what to avoid can prevent many poisonings by plants and pesticides.

What You’ll Find in This Guide:

Types of Poisonous Plants
How to Prevent Poisoning from Plants
What to Do If Your Child Touches or Eats a Poisonous Plant
Pesticide Safety
Resources for Preventing Poisoning by Plants and Pesticides

Vibrant larkspur is beautiful but poisonsous to eat. Photo by Felix Mittermeier on Pixabay

Types of Poisonous Plants

This section covers the more common types of poisonous plants found near backyards, parks, and trails.

Poisonous plants are categorized by the chemicals they contain. The most dangerous plants contain solanine, grayanotoxins and cardiac glycosides.

Solanine is found in food and ornamental plants such as Jerusalem Cherry, Nightshade, potato sprouts and unripe tomatoes. Unripe tomatoes and the green eyes of potatoes containing solanine, when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, headache, and moderate nausea. If children eat plants containing solanine in large quantities, drowsiness, sweating and changes in blood pressure and heart rate can occur. You may see effects within two to 24 hours, and diarrhea may last for three to six days.
Grayanotoxins are found in common yard plants including azalea and rhododendron. Lambkill and mountain laurel also contain grayanotoxins. If children eat or chew on leaves in this plant group, they may experience burning, numbness or tingling in their mouths. Within two to three hours, they may display other symptoms of poisoning such as nausea, vomiting, sweating, confusion and slowed heart rate. In severe cases of grayanotoxin poisoning, children have had seizures.
Cardiac glycosides are found in plants such as squill, Lily-of-the-Valley, foxglove, and oleander. Initial signs of cardiac glycoside poisoning include stomach pain, dizziness, confusion, headache or vomiting. Children who consume plants containing cardiac glycosides also experience a change in the rate or rhythm of the heart, and effects on blood pressure also may occur.

Other common poisonous plants include:

Poppies
Hemlock
Oak leaves and their acorns
Mistletoe
Elephant ear plants
Poison oak, ivy, and sumac
Hyacinths and daffodil
Larkspur
Black locust
Wisteria
Mistletoe

Daffodils are beautiful but to eat them is not good. Photo by Pixel2013 on Pixabay

Purple grape hyacinths is a poisonous plant

Little cute “grape hyacinths” are not grapes you want your children to eat. Photo by Couleur on Pixabay

Lily of the valley poisonous plant in the garden

Lily of the Valley are a gardener’s favorite, but remember to teach little people not to eat them. Photo by Soorelis at Pixabay

pink white and purple lupine standing very tall in the garden. poisonous plant

Lupine are so colorful and beautiful. However, they are not for consumption. Photo by Punch_Ra on Pixabay

How to Prevent Poisoning from Plants

This section includes tips for preventing children from being poisoned by plants. Parents should proactively teach their children to avoid eating plants or parts of plants. It’s also a good idea for parents of young children to avoid growing poisonous plants in their yards.

The most effective way to prevent poisoning is teaching children to not eat anything they find outside, regardless of whether or not it looks or smells good. Even if the birds are eating the berries, this doesn’t mean they are not poisonous for humans. Children should only eat plants or fruits from outside if they have your permission and after taking them in the house and washing them off. Try to practice what you preach, and don’t eat items from the family garden outside; tops of potato plants and green portions of potato contain solanine and rhubarb leaves which are poisonous.

To avoid accidental poisoning of children, keep berries, seeds, bulbs and plants out of reach. Try to avoid areas in parks that aren’t commonly used and areas that contain large amounts of plants. Additionally, while it may seem like a no-brainer, try to avoid decorating or landscaping with poisonous plants at home. Plants that have bright flowers and poisonous berries should be avoided until the children are older. The bright colors can be attractive to children, which can lead to ingestion. Also, remove all mushrooms that grow near your home and check your lawn for new mushrooms, especially during a wet and hot summer.

Making your yard and garden as safe as possible is the best course of action for preventing poisoning from plants. However, you don’t want to shutter your children off from being explorative. Providing safe areas where children can play and not be at risk of poisoning can be a great way to promote imagination. When taking your children on wilderness adventures, be wary of potential hazardous plants along walkways and trails.

Keep Kids Safe from Poisonous Plants and Pesticides – Part 2

March 29, 2018 by Western Gardens

What to Do If Your Child Touches or Eats a Poisonous Plant

This section guides parents through the correct course of action should their child come into contact with or ingest a poisonous plant.

If any of these symptoms occur after your child touches or eats a poisonous plant or pesticides, call 911 immediately: choking, unconsciousness, difficulty breathing or difficulty swallowing. If your child is not experiencing these severe symptoms but has touched or eaten a poisonous plant, berry, seed, bulb, or mushroom, contact your local poison center immediately at 1-800-222-1222. Do not wait for symptoms to appear before calling. You should be prepared to give your child’s age, symptoms or illnesses, the names of plants consumed, if possible, how much and which parts were eaten, and how recently the plant was touched or ingested. The poison specialist will instruct you on what to do and which symptoms to look for in your child.

If you are somewhere you cannot immediately get assistance, do not ingest or put a plant in your mouth to check if it is poisonous. You should look for pieces of the plant in your child’s mouth and remove any that you can find. You should give him small sips of water but avoid attempting to make him vomit. If your child has a skin irritation, itching, rash or blisters, immediately rinse his skin with fresh water. Call your local poison center (1-800-222-1222) as soon as you have access to a phone line.

Flowers are like magnets to children. They love to pick and smell. Teach them not to eat anything from the yard. Photo by Ardi Evans on Unsplash

Poison Ivy grows in leaves of three. Do not touch poison ivy.

Poison Ivy is a poisonous plant you or your child do not want to even touch. Photo from WikimediaCommons

Poison oak in the fall is another gorgeous plant. Children may want to gather its leaves. Don’t touch!

Pesticide Safety

Spring and summer also bring out more pests, both inside and outside of the home. This section explores the risks pesticides pose to children and includes tips for using safer alternatives to toxic pesticides.

Early farmers spread pesticides with horses who were protected.

Crazy how the horses were somewhat protected from the sprays. Photo by Internet Archive Book Images on Flickr & Wikimedia Commons. No restrictions.

The National Pesticide Information Center makes it clear that all pesticides carry a level of toxicity and pose a risk to all people but especially to infants and children, who are more sensitive to the toxic effects of pesticides than adults. Because pesticides also pose a poisoning risk to children, it is critical that parents use pesticides responsibly.

If you do choose to use a pesticide, be sure to read the product label to ensure you use it correctly and apply it exactly as the label instructs. Look for the least-toxic pesticides available and store them in their original containers far out of the reach of children. It is critical that you keep your children and pets out of treatment areas while you apply pesticides and until treated areas dry. Children should wear shoes and sit on blankets or use other barriers between them and your lawn if it has recently been treated. When your children are finished playing, make sure they wash their hands with warm water and soap as soon as they enter your home.

The safest way to handle pests in gardens, yards, and homes is to use insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, and natural ingredients to keep them at bay. If you are looking for different forms of pesticides that can keep your family garden safe, as well as the food you grow in it, try these alternatives:

Vegetable oil mixed with mild soap for insects like aphids and mites
Mild soap mixed with water for insects like whiteflies, beetles, aphids, and mites
Neem oil mixed with mild soap and water to disrupt the life cycle of insects and to protect plants before they become infested
Diatomaceous earth as a natural pesticide
Pureed garlic mixed with vegetable oil, mild soap and water to act as an insect repellent
Garlic, onion, and cayenne pepper, mixed with liquid soap as a natural insecticide

If parents take steps to learn about how to protect their children from pesticide and plant poisoning, most poisonings could be avoided. However, accidents happen to even the most prepared, so it is important to always be ready to contact a poison control center or emergency services if a child ingests or comes into contact with poisonous plants and pesticides.

Keep Kids Safe from Poisonous Plants and Pesticides – Part 3 Resources

March 29, 2018 by Western Gardens

Resources for Preventing Poisoning by Plants and Pesticides

We have compiled a list of resources that you can contact or research to get more information on pesticides and poisonous plants. You will find locations and phone numbers, materials for learning and informational sites if you are interest in learning more about the subjects of this guide. Please note, they are listed in alphabetical order.

ASPCA Poisonous Plants is dedicated to informing people which plants are poisonous to pets and animals.

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention Poisoning Prevention focuses on providing tips to prevent accidental home poisonings, including those by pesticides and plants.

Clemson Cooperative Extension’s Home & Garden Information Center gives a thorough overview of poison ivy, a plant that commonly causes skin irritation in children.

Early Childhood Learning & Knowledge Center shares information about poisonous plants and lists both non-poisonous and poisonous plants in charts.

Penn State Extension Pesticide Education is a fun portal that allows families to learn about pesticide safety in a fun way.

Poison Control is the place to call when you suspect your child has ingested or touched a poisonous plant or pesticide. You can get help online or call 1-800-222-1212.

Poisonous Plants in the Home Landscape is a publication by Montana State University professor of horticulture R.E. Gough that lists 72 plants and tells which parts of the plants are poisonous and whether they are dangerous through contact or ingestion.

Quills Up! Spike’s Poison Prevention Adventure is an engaging video for preschool-aged children that includes life lessons in poison prevention including staying away from plants and pesticides.

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Earth-Kind Landscaping shares a chart of the more common poisonous plants.

The University of California, Berkeley’s CalPhotos: Plants is an image database that contains over 300,000 pictures of plants to help determine if the plants you see on a daily basis are poisonous or not.

U.S. Department of Health & Human Services: Poison Proof Your Home offers tips for preventing poisoning by plants and pesticides.

Author: Angie Bersin, Redfin

Turf Training – Train your Lawn

March 29, 2018 by Western Gardens

Welcome Friends! Glad you dropped in to learn about saving water and money by Turf Training.

You can train your dog and train your lawn too!

You cannot teach a lawn to fetch the paper or to roll over. Even though some say that it can play dead, in the winter! Now that your lawn is coming out of the dreary winter, it’s time for turf training. You can train your lawn to grow deep lawn roots, so that you can cut your water bill during the summer and your lawn can be happy during those hottest Utah summer weeks. Turf Training is more painful for the owner than the lawn itself, but by July, it is possible to be watering your lawn once every two weeks or less, depending on your soil type. I know it works; I’ve lived it. This plan is for established lawns; new turf requires other care. Follow these steps and you too can have a well trained happy green lawn.

This month (April & into May), do not water your lawn! Mother Nature is taking care of watering lawns for you. DEEP INFREQUENT watering creates deep roots and thriving healthier plants.
Aerate your lawn. Perfect time is just before one of our spring rains.
Apply the proper spring fertilizer. Follow the directions explicitly. Again, the ideal time is just before a good rain to wash it into the turf.
If you haven’t already, apply pre-emergent.
Keep your finger OFF the automatic sprinkler system. Do NOT water your lawn. You are in turf training mode. I know it is painful because the sun is shining and spring is here, but don’t do it. Your lawn is stretching its roots deep. Let them go!
In May, repeat #5 unless one of the following occurs…
- Mother Nature hasn’t watered for 3 weeks. Time to water.
- When you walk across your lawn, your footsteps don’t bounce back up. Time to water.
- When you look across your lawn, you notice a dull bluish green tone in spots. Time to water.
DEEP WATER – Put a good inch of water or so on your lawn. Placing a tuna can on your grass will let you know when you’ve watered sufficiently. All this water will soak down deep and you will train your lawn, by withholding watering cycle, to stretch deep for the water. The roots will grow deeper and in the hot summer months of July & August, your lawn won’t get as stressed out. Its roots will be cooler down deep.
Repeat steps #6, #7 and #8.

As you can imagine, it will take time to train your lawn to grow deep roots. That is why it is important to begin first thing in the spring. For established Kentucky Blue grass, you may need to follow this method for two seasons, but it can be done.

This method to train your lawn is not meant for flower beds, newly seeded lawns, newly placed sod, trees or shrubs. Learn from our experts those proper watering techniques.

Watering Lawn Methods graphic by Texas Smartscape

http://www.txsmartscape.com/design_tools/water_conservation.asp

Article submitted by Wendy P

Fall Pruning Your Utah Garden – Basics

October 5, 2017 by Wendy Pettit

Time to do your fall pruning in your Utah garden along the Wasatch Front. Pruning your garden for winter is fairly simple. Follow two main basic pruning rules and then follow guidelines for various plants listed.

GENERAL Pruning Rules to Remember:

Rule #1 – Don’t prune plants until they are finished blooming.

Rule #2 – Prune dead or broken branches at any time of the season.

FALL Pruning Guidelines:

Fall Pruning of Flowering Shrubs

To keep with Rule #1, remember not to prune fall blooming shrubs until they are done blooming. Examples of fall blooming shrubs include Rose of Sharon, Hydrangeas, etc. Spring blooming shrubs (forsythia, spirea, lilac, etc) should be pruned in the spring or summer after they are done blooming. Often, these shrubs bloom on new growth, so prune them early in the season to get some good growth for the next year’s blooms.

Before you get started pruning your flowering shrub, keep in mind to retain and enhance the shrub’s naturally graceful habit. Take care not to cut the shrub into a boxy or unnatural shape (unless you want to sacrifice flowers and make a hedge). Remove dead and crossing branches. Cut ¼ of the oldest canes to the ground. This gives the plant renewed strength, letting light and air circulation into the center of the plant and provides growing space for new flowering stems.

Fall Pruning of Upright Evergreen Shrubs

Lightly prune to shape. Shrubs like Arborvitae may need wrapping or tying with twine to keep the snow from breaking off the branches.

Fall Pruning of Rose Bushes

Pruning depth depends on the type of rose. If a hybrid tea or a floribunda type, prune down to 24” above ground. Otherwise, prune to shape the bush. Prune out dead and broken branches. May mulch around the base of the bush in case of unexpected sub-zero winter temperatures. In the spring, if there has been winter damage, you will be able to prune off the winter-kill. Click here for a good article on how to prune your roses.

Fall Pruning of Vines

Pruning depends all upon the type of vine. Some clematis need pruning, other clematis do not. Follow the directions on the plant tag from a reputable local garden center, or ask the experts at the local nursery.

Fall Pruning of Berry Plants

Again, pruning requirements drastically vary depending on type of berry and cultivar. Ever-bearing plants require different pruning techniques than main crop berries. And even then there are different needs. You don’t want to trim back too far in the fall if you need to leave that newer growth for next year’s berries. Again, consult the expert gardeners at your reputable garden center. Be sure to know what variety of berry you have.

Fall Pruning of Fruit Trees

Do not prune fruit trees until winter when they are dormant, i.e. leaves have fallen and temperatures are in 30’s & 40’s. In northern Utah, we recommend pruning during January and February. Follow proper tree pruning techniques in the winter. Winter Pruning video. Remember that at any time, you can prune away dead or broken branches.

Fall Mowing “Pruning” of Lawn/Turf

Mowing your lawn is actually a type of “pruning”. Your last mowing of the season should be shorter than during the summer months when you want the shade of the blades to help retain moisture in the soil and more green for healthier roots. When you are ready to put your lawnmower away, set your lawn mower to 1½” setting and give your lawn a good pruning! WARNING: Don’t be overly ambitious and “scalp” the lawn. A nice short cut is desired, but you don’t want to injure the base of the plant.

Additional Fall Lawn Note: Now is a time to spread your fall fertilizer. If you have had issues with fungus, now is the time to apply a fungicide treatment. Also, weed control is still viable when daily high temperatures are higher than 55-60 degrees. Weeds love the forgotten fall lawn.

Fall Pruning of Perennials

Be sure to remember Rules #1 and #2 above. Not pruning until the plant finishes blooming also applies to dividing and transplanting in the fall. Don’t transplant until the plant is done blooming. This means that your fall bloomers like Autumn Joy Sedum, chrysanthemums, etc., need to finish blooming before you divide and transplant or prune. Be patient! You have plenty of other pruning and garden work to do. These are the last ones to prune before the beds are done for the winter.

Two Additional General Fall Pruning Rules for Most Perennials:

Prune when the plants begin to die back, leaving their greenery to continue feeding the roots as long as possible.
Cut them down to 3-4 inches above the soil. This is because most perennials die down to the ground in the winter. Leaving 3 inches will mark the plants during winter. Also in the spring the 3-4 inches is low enough you won’t need to go back and prune as the plant emerges.

EXCEPTIONS to Pruning Perennial Rules: Woody perennials like lavender need only light pruning to shape and evergreen perennials like candytuft should also only be lightly pruned. If you question what to prune or how much, follow the guidance from your master gardener at the independent garden center like Western Gardens. We would love to help you have a successful garden.

Fall Pruning of Ground Covers –

Simply trim lightly.

Fall Pruning of Ornamental Grasses

If you enjoy the silhouette of your grasses, leave them to admire throughout late fall. Later trim to 6-8 inches above ground.

Fall Pruning Questions:

If you have any questions about fall pruning for winter, please feel free to stop by our Western Garden Centers and visit with one of our expert gardeners. We’ll be happy to answer any of your questions.

Fall Reminder:

While you are pruning and cleaning up, breathe deep the fresh autumn crisp air and admire the changes taking place in your garden.

What fall pruning do you enjoy doing in your yard?

The beginner basics of fall pruning your utah garden for winter.

Photo credit: Pixabay

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Gluten and Dairy Free Peach Cobbler

August 26, 2017 by Vanessa Roush

Having someone over for dessert but you have no idea what to feed them because they’re Gluten Free, Dairy Free, or Vegan? Here’s a recipe for gluten and dairy free peach cobbler that will be sure to impress those with or without food allergies. And this recipe is just in time for the ripening of your Red Haven peaches from your tree.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups sliced fresh, frozen, or canned peaches
1-2 tsp lemon juice
3 Tbsp coconut oil
1/2 tsp almond extract
dash of cinnamon (optional, but highly recommended)
3/4 cups sugar
2/3 cup almond flour or brown rice flour
1/3 cup tapioca flour
1 tsp baking powder
dash of salt
1/2 cup coconut milk
1 tsp xanthum gum (you can omit this if you don’t have it, it just makes the flours stick together since they don’t have gluten in them)

DIRECTIONS

Peach preparation:

First, peel and slice your fresh peaches and place fruit in 2 1/2 quart dish and drip lemon juice over them. If you use canned peaches, drain and dump in dish.

Batter:

Cream together melted coconut oil and sugar, then add almond extract.
Add in coconut milk, then rice/almond flour, tapioca flour, baking powder, xanthum gum and dash of salt.
Mix well and spread over fruit. This will be thick and a tad lumpy.
After this, I like to lightly sprinkle the top with a little sugar and a little freshly ground salt.

Bake at 350 degrees F for about 25-30 minutes. I bake the cobbler until it starts to look caramelized on top, which gives a bit of a crunch to go with the chewy middle.

Serve warm plain or with frozen ice cream of choice. I personally like it served up with a little bit of coconut milk if I don’t have any dairy free ice cream on hand. My husband tells me it’s delicious with vanilla ice cream.

This recipe works great with using brown rice flour, or almond flour. After trying both, our favorite is the almond flour version.

Careful, it’s addicting and you might want to eat this entire dish of gluten and dairy free peach cobbler.

NOTE: Cobbler can be made with canned peaches, but it is always best made with fresh picked peaches from your peach trees from Western Gardens. Fall is a good time to plant trees.

3 Simple Tips for Picking Ripe Cantaloupe

August 22, 2017 by Wendy Pettit

If you’re like me, you can use some tips for picking ripe cantaloupe, because it can be hard to tell when it’s ready to eat!

I find it disappointing to be preparing a cantaloupe for dinner, only to take one taste and it is bland and flavorless. I’ve learned my lesson and discovered how to choose or pick a cantaloupe that is ripe and ready to eat. Now when I’m either picking fruit at the store or from my own garden, there are three simple tips to remember to help you wisely spend your money and time.

Follow these simple tips to choose a melon that is ripe and ready to eat.

LOOK – Cantaloupe should be a nice golden yellow color. Don’t pick cantaloupe that are greenish. They are not ready! Don’t worry about rough spots that may be on the outside of your cantaloupe. They don’t mean anything as to the ripeness.
FEEL – You should be able to feel the edges of the outer skin. A smooth skin means it is not ripe. The flower end (the end not attached to the vine) is soft. You should be able to press it gently in. If it springs back out after pressing, your cantaloupe is ready.
SMELL – Place the flower end or the “button” of the cantaloupe just under your nose and take a whiff. A strong sweet aroma indicates the cantaloupe is ready. Sometimes you will smell the strong aroma without smelling the button. If it doesn’t have a scent, don’t pick it or buy it. It is not sweet.

Cantaloupe from the store or market can be yummy, but my favorite is freshly picked from my garden. Now when I eat cantaloupe, it is like a little slice of heaven. Picked right off the vine, it is heavy, fragrant, juicy, and still warm from sitting in the sun. I love to garden!

TIP FOR GROWING: Be sure to begin your seeds indoors early spring so you can have good healthy larger plants when it is warm enough outside. Melons like a long hot growing season!

Planting New Trees 101- Secrets to Help Your New Tree Thrive!

July 26, 2017 by Vanessa Roush

Welcome Friends! Glad you dropped in.

In Utah, spring and fall are the best times for planting new trees. Here are a few secrets to help you find success with your new investment that will beautify and make your yard and home more enjoyable for a long time.

Planting New Trees Begin With Buying an Appropriate Healthy Tree

The first step to a healthy tree is to purchase from a quality local independent garden center or nursery. Big box stores tend to get trees that look okay for a season but suffer down the line because of poor soil, crowding, root chopping, inadequate root ball size, rough handling, and poor care. Often these warehouse stores don’t own the plant inventory; it is on consignment, so less care is given to the material. A local independent store, like Western Gardens, also has experts who can help you pick the right tree for the conditions at your house and your growing Zone. Check for trees that have 10’’-12’’ of root ball per inch in diameter of the tree trunk. When selecting a tree, take into account the mature height and width. Material from a quality grower usually has a tag indicating the mature height of the tree. Some trees may look cute now planted a few feet from the house and close to another one, but after a few years this can become very problematic. Also consider planting a tree of an underutilized species in your area.

Transport Your New Tree Home

Local independent gardening stores can deliver your tree for a nominal fee, and you can have the peace of mind knowing that it was transported carefully. If you are transporting your tree home yourself, make sure that it is properly secured and avoid going on the freeway or driving at high speeds. It’s preferable to transport them on their side in the back of a truck so that the leaves aren’t taking the brunt of the air flow as you drive. This can desiccate the leaves and put the tree into shock. As the tree is lifted in and out, be careful to handle gently. Dropping or rough handling can also put your tree into shock.

Evaluate the Branching of Your Tree and Decide Which Way It Should Face

This is often an overlooked step, or an after thought most of the time. Every tree has different branching and some have a better side than others when it comes to aesthetics. First place the tree in the spot where you’d like to plant it and turn it until the branching is how you like it . Take a few steps back, walk around, and look at it from different viewing angles. Consider the main viewing point for the tree, or other things like proximity to fences, driveways, side walks, and power lines.

Dig the Hole and Fill with Water

Dig the hole twice as wide and twice as deep at the root ball. If you are planting a tree that likes well drained soil, but you have clay soil, then be sure to dig the hole much wider and supplement with some good soil. Bumper Crop mixed in with your soil is one of our favorite recipes. The hole should not be deeper than the root ball itself. Use your hose to fill the hole with water and let soak down a bit. This insures that there will be good moisture deep down for the roots of your tree to take hold.

Planting New Tree in Hole – Rotate and/or Straighten

If your tree came out of a bucket, check to make sure the roots are not root bound, or circling around itself. If they are, take a razor blade or knife and cut an X on the bottom and make 4 cuts along the sides. If it was wrapped in burlap and/or with twine, remove any plastic twine because this will not decompose. Loosen the burlap. These steps are important so that the roots do not become wrapped around itself causing the tree to girdle itself and die. Place the tree in the hole and backfill it around the sides. Around the trunk, mulch can be 1’’ thick and then increase in depth up to 4’’ toward the outer edge of the rootball. Check and make sure the tree is straight. Also make sure that you can see the flare of the trunk; it should not be covered.

http://www.gardeners.com/how-to/tree-planting/8741.html

Image Credit: Gardeners.com

Watering A New Tree

Planting new trees into the ground isn’t the end. Watering is very important. The amount of water varies on the type of tree and soil conditions at the planting site. If you are unsure, ask your local gardening expert. Trees should be watered when planted and also the following day. Then follow with every 3 days or so. The first 2 years of the tree’s life are the most important for establishing roots. When you water, try to do a slow drip so that it can soak down deep and encourage deep roots. Some sprinkling systems may provide adequate watering, but try to avoid high pressure sprinkler heads from spraying the trunk of your tree. It’s not necessary to fertilize trees during their first season.

Monitoring Tree Growth and Health

Don’t forget to monitor the health of your tree as time passes by. If you notice the leaves or needles look sick, take a sample of the problem or at least a photo to Western Gardens where their experts there can diagnose most problems just by examining your sample. They can give you suggestions for chemical and/or organic methods to resolve the issue.

Planting new trees is a wonderful experience because you are investing in the future.

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Tips & How To's

MY COMPOST EXPERIENCE

STEPS FOR COMPOSTING

MATERIALS TO COMPOST

TIPS ABOUT YOUR COMPOST

Pin me – composting kitchen scraps!

How to Control Boxelder Bug and/or Prevent their Annoyance

Types of Poisonous Plants

Other common poisonous plants include:

How to Prevent Poisoning from Plants

What to Do If Your Child Touches or Eats a Poisonous Plant

Pesticide Safety

Resources for Preventing Poisoning by Plants and Pesticides

Welcome Friends! Glad you dropped in to learn about saving water and money by Turf Training.

You can train your dog and train your lawn too!

GENERAL Pruning Rules to Remember:

FALL Pruning Guidelines:

Fall Pruning of Flowering Shrubs

Fall Pruning of Upright Evergreen Shrubs

Fall Pruning of Rose Bushes

Fall Pruning of Vines

Fall Pruning of Berry Plants

Fall Pruning of Fruit Trees

Fall Mowing “Pruning” of Lawn/Turf

Fall Pruning of Perennials

Fall Pruning of Ground Covers –

Fall Pruning of Ornamental Grasses

Fall Pruning Questions:

Fall Reminder:

What fall pruning do you enjoy doing in your yard?

INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

Welcome Friends! Glad you dropped in.

Planting New Trees Begin With Buying an Appropriate Healthy Tree

Transport Your New Tree Home

Evaluate the Branching of Your Tree and Decide Which Way It Should Face

Dig the Hole and Fill with Water

Planting New Tree in Hole – Rotate and/or Straighten

Watering A New Tree

Monitoring Tree Growth and Health